The story of Peggy Hartanto begins in a family home in Surabaya, Indonesia, where young sisters watched their grandmother sew matching dresses on a black vintage machine. What started as play, making clothes for dolls from leftover fabric, would eventually spark a much bigger dream: to build a fashion brand that celebrates the strength, complexity and beauty of modern women. Founded in 2012 by sisters Peggy, Petty and Lydia Hartanto, Peggy Hartanto has grown into one of Indonesia’s most distin
distinctive contemporary womenswear labels. Known for its bold silhouettes, vibrant palettes and sculptural detailing, the brand blends architectural precision with emotional softness.
Now stocked in boutiques across Asia, the Middle East, Europe and the US, Peggy Hartanto is quietly carving out its place on the global stage. In this conversation, the Hartanto sisters open up about their creative beginnings, the evolution of their vision, and what it means to build a brand and a legacy from Southeast Asia.
Inside Retail: Can you share a bit about your early creative journey? What inspired you to pursue fashion design?
Peggy Hartanto: Our grandmother and mother have always loved to sew, especially our grandmother. We grew up watching her spend her leisure time sewing on her black sewing machine. She made our clothes when we were little. As twins, Petty and I often wore matching dresses she made. I would often use her leftover fabrics to make clothes for my dolls. Those early moments sparked my creative journey.
We explored many creative avenues growing up, traditional dance, hip-hop, figure skating, drawing – so creativity was always a part of our lives.
I always wanted to work in a creative field, and eventually chose fashion design as my major at Raffles College of Design and Commerce in Sydney. The fashion scene in Australia fascinated me. I joined many competitions, gained hands-on experience and eventually landed an internship at one of Australia’s leading labels, Collette Dinnigan. I worked there briefly after graduating, before returning to Surabaya (my hometown) with the aspiration to launch my own ready-to-wear label.
IR: What was the original vision behind launching Peggy Hartanto, and how has that vision evolved over time?
Peggy H: Originally, the idea was to launch a ready-to-wear label for occasionwear, a concept that was foreign in Surabaya at that time. Occasion means weddings, and as wedding guests or family, you often make a dress at seamstresses by choosing styles that you love, and the fabrics. The style was more extravagant, and more embellished.
I was very inspired by Australian fashion’s laid back, elevated style. We launched Peggy Hartanto, debuting with 10 styles – nine dresses and one jumpsuit.
Petty Hartanto: The initial vision was simple: to create what we couldn’t find. We wanted to offer pieces that stood apart – ready to wear, more toned down but not less empowering and with a modern feel. As the brand grew, so did our vision. We leaned into statement dressing, minimalist yet impactful silhouettes, dramatic cut-outs and intricate panelling.
Then the pandemic shifted how people dressed. Parties became smaller or virtual, and we began expanding beyond traditional occasionwear. It gives dressing a different meaning, to add a sense of joy to the everyday. We introduced versatile separates, softer fabrics and joyful statement pieces that could be worn across different moments of life, not just engagements or weddings.
For our 10th anniversary, we were deeply moved by the stories shared by our clients who wore Peggy Hartanto for their life’s most meaningful moments: from first dates and weddings to celebrating their children’s milestones now.
Today, our vision is to grow Peggy Hartanto into a brand that empowers women through craftsmanship, and bold and thoughtful design, celebrating life’s meaningful moments, both big and small, with pieces that bring joy and confidence.
We hope that wearing or holding a Peggy Hartanto piece feels like having a lucky charm.
IR: What have been the biggest challenges and breakthroughs in scaling an independent label from Southeast Asia?
Lydia Hartanto: The biggest challenge has been gaining visibility. When we started, independent labels in Southeast Asia were still emerging, and there was no clear blueprint for building a global brand from this region. Operating outside the major fashion capitals meant working twice as hard to be seen and taken seriously – by press, buyers and even our own market, where international brands were often prioritised.
Our first major breakthrough came early, when a Hollywood public figure wore one of our pieces. That moment gave us momentum and signalled that our design language could resonate globally.
We began showing in Paris, secured international stockists, and steadily built a community both at home and abroad. These milestones gave us confidence to expand thoughtfully, staying true to our identity while growing our reach.
Over time, we’ve come to see our Indonesian roots not as a limitation, but as a strength. There’s richness in our perspective, agility in how we operate and a deep understanding of our market that sets us apart.
IR: What has been one of the biggest lessons in building a brand from Indonesia with global ambitions?
Lydia H: That daring to dream, backed by resilience and thoughtful planning, is everything. There’s no clear roadmap for building a contemporary fashion brand from this part of the world. We’ve had to learn by doing: experimenting, adapting, pivoting and constantly refining our approach.
One of the most important lessons has been to trust our instincts and remain consistent with our vision. Staying grounded in who we are has helped us grow with purpose, not just momentum.
IR: Can you tell us more about the opening of your first store in Jakarta?
Petty H: We felt the timing was right, both for us and for the market. Opening our first flagship store was a natural next step. While we were already available through Galeries Lafayette, Masari, Pillar and our own online store, we wanted a space that fully reflected the world of Peggy Hartanto.
We envisioned a carefully curated boutique that embodied our brand’s language: bold, sculptural, whimsical and detailed. A space where every light, fixture, scent and song contributed to the experience. It’s more than just a store, it’s a place to tell our story, connect with guests and showcase our craftsmanship without constraints.
IR: How do you approach international expansion, especially as the brand gains traction in markets outside Southeast Asia?
Lydia H: We’ve been showing regularly in Paris since 2015, which has helped us build international visibility and connect with buyers, editors and stylists from around the world. This has been key in expanding our wholesale presence.
Over the years, we’ve developed long-term relationships with retailers, some of whom have been with us for two, six, even eight years. Each market is different, and we tailor our approach accordingly. Retailers have played a role not only in introducing our brand to new audiences but also in co-creating activations and in-store initiatives that bring the brand to life.
IR: What does it mean to “dress with power and purpose” in today’s world, and how do you want women to feel when they wear Peggy Hartanto?
Peggy H: We believe that modern women contain multitudes and have fluid roles. Our designs embrace that by balancing bold silhouettes with softness, structure with fluidity and modernity with emotion.
To “dress with power and purpose” means to honour the complexity of womanhood, with pieces that reflect the strength and intention.
We want women to feel confident, elevated when they wear Peggy Hartanto. Whether it’s a celebration dress, or a tailored piece for office, or a handbag for everyday hangouts, our hope is that each piece becomes a source of joy, and a boost of confidence and power.
IR: Many Asian designers are now embracing both local identity and global relevance. How do you approach that balance?
Petty H: We see our roots as a source of strength and originality. Our approach isn’t about using literal cultural motifs, but rather about expressing local identity through sensibility, how we treat form, detail, silhouette and storytelling.
Indonesia has a rich tradition of craftsmanship, and that’s deeply reflected in how we design. There’s a balance in the way we interpret modern femininity in our culture, with both structure and softness. This helps us create pieces with intention and depth.
At the same time, we’ve always wanted to be part of a global conversation. We design for women around the world – modern, and multidimensional – without losing the perspective that makes us unique.
IR: Looking back over a decade in fashion, what are you most proud of?
Lydia H: We’re proud of what we’ve built so far – together as a team, and as a brand. From the beginning, we’ve made a conscious effort to stay true to our vision and aesthetic.
But most of all, we’re proud of the connection our clients have with Peggy Hartanto. Whether they’ve grown with us over the years or recently discovered us, it’s incredibly humbling to know our designs have been part of their most meaningful moments. That emotional connection, knowing that our work enhances their life moments, is what we value most.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue of Inside Retail Asia magazine.