After years of being an afterthought, stylish clothing for people with disabilities – adaptive fashion – is being embraced by mainstream players. Brands from Converse and Tommy Hilfiger to JAM The Label are broadening their ranges to consider people who have difficulties utilising traditionally made clothing. There are more places to buy adaptive clothing as well: The Iconic launched its Adaptive Edit, while online fashion and lifestyle retailer Every Human and online marketpla
ketplace Averee are purely aimed at people with disabilities.
And sportswear giant Nike has now extended its FlyEase function – which allows people to put on shoes hands-free – to global streetwear brand Converse.
While it’s the first time Converse has integrated adaptive elements into its designs, it may not be the last, according to global VP of design and innovation Phil Russo.
“As a brand that champions inclusivity and access, we’re always exploring ways we can expand our portfolio to appeal to all consumers,” Russo told Inside Retail.
“You can expect us to continue to experiment with new and diverse elements to push the boundaries of innovation with our products.”
Creating the range required input from a number of teams within the Nike business, from innovation and product to merchandising, he said. As a result, Converse was able to implement Nike’s hands-free technology into its iconic Chuck Taylor style and reach a new market.
The diversity dollar
It’s this ‘new market’ that should be tempting for brands, said disability advocate Lisa Cox.
“Aside from the fact that it’s socially, morally and ethically responsible, valuing the diversity dollar is smart business that makes sound financial and economic sense,” Cox said.
“Consumers with disabilities make up approximately 20 per cent of the retail population. That’s a market share that businesses can’t afford to ignore.”
And while Cox praised the efforts of the brands making efforts in the space, she also noted that many have done so as PR stunts or “a seasonal trend”, rather than making a conscious effort to genuinely make their brands more accessible.
Creating a single adaptive SKU is also not enough to win over every customer with a disability, Cox warned, with the key thing missing from many adaptive efforts being choice.
“There is no single type of shoe that all people with disabilities wear because we’re all so different,” Cox said.
“For example, some people in wheelchairs wear stilettos because they don’t stand, but I can no longer wear heels of any sort because I occasionally do stand from my wheelchair.”
A person with disabilities may want the most expensive, bright pair of shoes in a store, or they may want something basic.
The aim, Cox said, should be for retailers to ask people with disabilities what they want and not make assumptions “based on a stereotype seen on TV”.
It could also be worth taking the technology and lessons learned from adaptive fashion into more traditional offerings, with ease of use being of value to anyone – regardless of whether they live with a disability.
HandsFree Labs chief executive Monte Deere told Hypebeast last year that the company, which worked with Nike to create the FlyEase technology, envisions a young generation of children that no longer need to use their hands to put on shoes – potentially at the expense of learning how to tie their laces.
“Hands-free footwear makes everyone’s life better,” Deere said.
“We often state the problem this way: ‘No one likes the hassle of tying their shoes, and some people can’t’.”