An old TopShop store in north London’s Brent Cross shopping centre has been revived after two years of sitting empty since the fast fashion brand closed down. It’s now a vibrant pop-up department store selling pre-loved clothing organised collaboratively by 10 charities. Charity Super.Mkt opened 26 January and will close on 24 February. It appeals to shoppers looking for unique vintage clothing by offering a curated selection of fashion and accessories from the UK’s most loved charit
rity retailers. All secondhand clothing sold raises money for charities, including Shelter, Barnardo’s, Cancer Research UK, Emmaus and Traid.
The pre-loved department store was created by Wayne Hemingway, founder of British fashion brand Red or Dead and Hemingway Design, and Maria Chenoweth, CEO of sustainable clothing charity TRAID.
“We believe in the circular economy and the good pound. If you spend here it won’t go to someone who will make a profit and take it offshore and pay no tax,” Hemingway said.
Charity Super.Mkt aims to position itself as a viable retailer amongst established commercial competition and provide an alternative to online platforms such as Depop, Vinted and eBay. The pre-loved clothing market has exploded in the last five years, and as physical retail gains momentum after the pandemic, consumers are seeking to buy from responsible retailers with purpose-led values.
Charity Super.Mkt co-founder Chenoweth said, “It is the first time charities have come together at this level. It has to be a new way of doing business and…being a major competitor against people doing bad stuff.”
The pandemic forced retailers all over the world to rethink their business model alongside shifting industry trends and markets. And with pre-loved fashion experiencing monumental growth, traditional retailers such as charity and thrift stores have had to consider how they stay relevant.
Many shopping precincts were left with empty stores due to swift lockdowns and it’s been a slow return to bricks-and-mortar for brands. However, Hemingway and Chenoweth received interest from landlords all over the UK who were keen to fill large spaces and get people back into their shopping centres.
This has influenced retailers, property developers and landlords to question whether the old way of doing things is fit for purpose.
Reloved retail
Charity Super.Mkt is putting the rent-free space at Brent Cross to good use by reusing the store’s fittings, hangers and TopShop bags left behind. Hemingway believes the store will help change the attitude towards buying secondhand clothing and give the centre’s existing customer base something different to browse, along with encouraging new customers to visit the centre and Charity Super.Mkt.
It’s not often you see a charity or thrift store with a presence in a shopping centre, as they are typically relegated to suburban strips. However, the stigma is changing significantly due to a greater awareness of textile waste and its impact on the environment and brands increasingly exploring re-commerce as an additional retail model.
Even so, the Charity Super.Mkt founders continuously see councils in the UK moving charity stores from local high streets. “They should want more of them, as this is the right direction in how people are consuming,” Hemingway said.
The pre-loved clothing and resale markets are steadily growing, and the need to integrate these stores into popular shopping precincts will become a necessity. They offer a diverse shopping experience to discerning shoppers, while bringing circular retail to the masses.
Rebranding secondhand
Charity Super.Mkt is an example of the power of the rebrand.
Perceptions about buying secondhand clothing and accessories have built up over the years. We think of the items we buy from thrift stores as being at the last stop before going to landfill – deeming them less worthy because they’ve been used many times over.
Emphasising this perception is the thrift store environment, which lacks the showy fixtures and features of a new shop fitout. This is largely due to the lack of funds available to charity stores and their reliance on the time and passion of volunteers to keep them running. Charity stores have been overlooked in the brand experience space and the pressure of new online marketplaces with shiny branding make it difficult to regain relevance.
Charity Super.Mkt is different. It has received the full makeover treatment, with the aid of Hemingway Design, a multi-disciplinary creative agency of designers focused on place, people and positive social impact. A crafted, contemporary brand for a charity store has the power to change attitudes, appeal to new audiences and build a loyal community.
The shop is the first of its kind, paving the way for charity stores to take up residence in our local shopping centres, because one person’s trash is another person’s treasure and we can be on that circular adventure for a long time to come.