It’s a fascinating time to be a fashion buyer right now, working out consumers’ changing relationships with their wardrobes and predicting what they’ll be looking for next season. Will they still be interested in loungewear while working from home, or will they be finally ready to get back into tailored suiting? Afterpay Australian Fashion Week recently took place, giving buyers the opportunity to catch a glimpse of what’s to come. Here, Incu buyers Sarah Kirby and Fabienne McCreary
ry share with us the trends that caught their eye, the showrooms they visited in between runway events and the emerging brands they’re loving right now.
Monday: Bondi Born makes a splash
Fabienne McCreary: It’s really refreshing to buy Australian brands that work to a southern hemisphere fashion calendar, so we are not facing the consistent challenges of reverse seasonality as we do with international brands.
Swim is a category that we have been looking to expand at Incu, so it’s great to have the ability to work with local brands who understand exactly what the Australian consumer needs and can deliver it at the perfect time.
Bondi Born presented a beautiful show on Monday, and I was able to follow this up with a showroom appointment on Thursday to pull my final edit together for Incu.
Tuesday: Slow and sustainable at Bassike
Sarah Kirby: Given that all of our appointments have taken place over Zoom, it has been a real step change to be able to see garments up close and on the body.
Bassike’s message of ‘slowing down’ was felt throughout the show and included a Bassike-branded phone pouch on every guest’s seat to encourage a focus on the present.
Their commitment to sustainability was seen throughout the collection with a continued mix of organic cottons, complemented back with highlights of dye treatment and colour. Bassike is a brand that has always resonated well with the Incu customer, so it was great to see fresh updates in easy tailored outerwear and shirting.
Wednesday: Anna Quan takes it easy
Kirby: Emerging local brand Anna Quan hosted an intimate evening offsite at French restaurant Franca in Potts Point. Models presented the collection floating in between tables while dinner was being served.
The collection was a mix of easy tailoring paired back with classic silk dresses and Anna Quan’s signature button down shirts, this collection will really offer her a transition out of the comfort dressing we’ve seen from 2020.
Thursday: Wynn Hamlyn, the new kid on the block
Kirby: AAFW is a perfect opportunity to meet with our existing partners and look out for new talent that will connect with our Incu customer. Resort is particularly important as it’s a season that really complements the lifestyle of our local customer so it’s key we are always introducing her to something new to discover.
McCreary: It’s amazing to once again visit showrooms and return to face-to-face appointments. Not only is it a great brand-buyer relationship-building exercise, it is so important for us to touch and feel product and see our final selects pulled together on a rail.
When I select product in showroom appointments, I don’t have to play it as safe, because I can see the quality, fit, drape of a garment, rather than just relying on images, which may look a little different when they arrive in-store.
Appointments are also an amazing way to discover new brands. I’ve been familiar with Auckland-based designer Wynn Hamlyn for some time, but he hasn’t been at the top of my radar until now. After visiting fashion sales business Known Agency for Anna Quan and Bondi Born, and getting a feel for Wynn Hamlyn’s product and understanding the story behind it, I am now looking to include it in the Incu women’s portfolio.
Friday: St Agni showcases local style
McCreary: Another brand with a strong sustainability focus, St Agni presented their resort collection on Friday morning at Carriageworks.
Teaming their ready-to-wear collection with in-house swim label ZIah, St Agni was another great example of an Australian brand nailing laidback yet elegant resortwear, delivered with the Australian customer at the forefront, which international brands cannot do.