While I’ve long held admiration for the Australian beauty industry, especially its success stories featuring female founders who have achieved international acclaim, a closer examination has brought to light an issue that demands attention. Despite the thriving presence of female leadership in this industry, it’s impossible to overlook the dominance of beauty brands owned by white women in both physical stores and online spaces. This observation prompted me to ask the question: Where on Eart
Earth are the Australian beauty brands owned by Women of Colour?
Determined to unveil real insights, I dedicated months to engaging with Women of Colour founders in the beauty sector. Through meaningful conversations with founders at various business stages and from diverse ethnic backgrounds, including First Nations, Southeast Asian, and Black, a common thread emerged. These businesses consistently face significant obstacles, such as challenges to entering established retail spaces, severely limited access to funding, and a glaring scarcity of mentorship and coaching from experienced individuals.
These stories are not mere anecdotes; they are a call to action, urging us to champion changes. To truly embrace inclusivity and diversity within the beauty industry, we must go beyond passive listening, we must let these stories propel us into meaningful action. It is through this emotional resonance that we can pave the way for a beauty industry that authentically celebrates every shade and story.
Funding
Navigating the start-up landscape is challenging enough as it is for women, as a mere 3 per cent of all venture capital funding goes towards female-owned businesses in Australia, according to the latest State of Australian Startup Funding report. However, within this already disappointing 3 per cent, the lowest amount of funding goes to Women of Colour, who receive less than 0.03 per cent of all funding. Less than 0.03 per cent. Let that sink in. It’s a rude shock if you weren’t aware that the intersectionality of skin colour and gender could dramatically hinder your chances of succeeding in business in Australia.
Priyanka Ashraf, founder and director of The Creative Co-Operative, conducted a revealing report titled The State of Bla(c)k Women nd Women of Colour Founders in the Australian Startup Ecosystem. The report uncovered that 25 per cent of respondents perceived racial discrimination as a barrier to accessing funding. As reported by The Age in 2022, among the 25 per cent of Black, Indigenous, Women of Colour founders who successfully raised funds, 61.7 per cent secured less than $50,000.
This funding gap perpetuates a cycle of limited opportunities and hinders the growth of businesses led by Women of Colour. The biases within investment circles demand urgent correction, as encouraging inclusivity isn’t just the right thing to do, it also boosts financial wellbeing by unlocking the full potential of our diverse entrepreneurial talent.
Mentorship and coaching
The timeless adage, ‘It’s not what you know, but who you know’ carries profound resonance for the women I interviewed. Princess Chinoyi, the founder of Entle Beaute, shared, “This resonated loudly in my journey. The lack of pre-existing connections in the beauty industry felt like navigating a maze blindfolded. It emphasised the importance of networking, yet also highlighted the inherent challenge of breaking into circles often inaccessible to young Women of Colour like myself.”
The struggle for access to mentors or coaches willing to share knowledge and experiences with Women of Colour emerged from my conversations as a genuine concern. This is especially poignant given the abundance of female founders in the industry.
In Australia, especially among women entrepreneurs, a more welcoming and inquisitive approach that reflects that of the US, towards new founders should be encouraged. Sumana Jayanth, founder of hair accessories label Damn Gina said of her experience,“I’m part of several e-commerce groups, and what’s surprising is the distinct atmosphere in an American group. There, information flows freely, everyone is eager to assist and share contractor lists, recommend software and discuss new ventures.”
“Supporting them in any way possible is crucial because there’s ample room for all of us to succeed. Remember, you were once a newcomer, too, and understand how lonely and overwhelming it can be. What you give may come back around, and you never know who might play a pivotal role for you and your company in the future.”
Tanya Mudariki, founder of SVNT Skin, said, “If I could change the support structures for Women of Colour in business, I would establish a network of mentors dedicated to empowering Women of Colour in Australia, individuals well-versed in the unique challenges we may encounter. Often, the key is simply gaining access to opportunities, as we frequently find ourselves on the outside looking in. We require more allies who are enthusiastic about supporting our path.”
This compels me to confront the stark absence of melanin diversity at #FemaleFounder industry events. To my fellow female founders, your unique experiences and lessons contribute immensely to strengthening the network of female entrepreneurs. It’s crucial to share your insights, but let’s not overlook our BIPOC sisters – they too need your valuable advice and guidance.
When extending or receiving invitations to events, consider including Women of Colour founders. Unfortunately, these women are often excluded, and without deliberate invitations, the door to inclusivity stays firmly closed. Event organisers, it’s time to raise the bar. Ensure your invite list radiates richness and diversity. Let’s tirelessly work towards seeing women of all colours not just present but acknowledged at your events.
To business coaches, scrutinise your client list. If it lacks diversity, reach out to a Woman of Colour who could profoundly benefit from your expertise. My research indicates this gesture could be a transformative step in someone’s business journey. Seize the opportunity to be a catalyst for change. If that’s not professionally rewarding, I’m uncertain what could be.
Entering retail spaces
In the US, Ulta Beauty and Sephora proudly showcase dedicated sections for Black-owned brands. Selfridges Beauty in the UK spearheads the Meet The Untapped Creatives section, promoting Black owned luxury British brands and striving for positive change. Additionally, Glossier supports Black-owned businesses in the US through a grant program offering financial assistance, mentorship, business programming, and one-on-one meetings with leaders across the business. Regrettably, Australia lags in this progressive approach, with no visible space for BIPOC-owned brands to be found.
Many diverse brands struggle to secure shelf space, facing retailer reluctance to embrace BIPOC-owned brands. Overcoming these hurdles is vital for fostering inclusivity and reflecting the diversity of the Australian beauty landscape.
As for essential advice for Women of Colour venturing into the beauty business, All Shades Matter, a complexion brand specifically addressing the lack of diversity in shade selection, emphasised staying true to vision and values, embracing diversity, and actively engaging with the target audience.
Even Bread Beauty Supply founder Maeva Heim had to seek offshore support to get her brand off the ground. As she told Frankie magazine, when Heim was ready to bring Bread Beauty Supply to life in 2019, finding the right retail partner that believed in the brand was a big step forward. “Once I knew what Bread was and why I wanted it to exist, I knew that I wanted my products to exist in Sephora,” she said.
To get on Sephora’s radar, Heim attended an event where she knew a vice-president from the company would be speaking. Her mission? Get face-to-face time and pitch Bread directly. Within 48 hours of speaking with the VP, Heim was on a plane to San Francisco to present a pitch deck, which led to her being fast-tracked into the Sephora Accelerate program in the US.
Not every founder can spontaneously catch a flight overseas, however, nor should they be compelled to leave their home country just to launch their brands.
Creating a more inclusive and equitable entrepreneurial ecosystem requires effort from various stakeholders, including policymakers, investors and business leaders. By dismantling systemic barriers, fostering diversity in leadership roles, and promoting inclusive practices, we can empower Australian Women of Colour to overcome these challenges.
Author’s note: This inquiry has been a collective undertaking involving Women of Colour founders in Australia. My sincere gratitude goes to Tanya Mudariki from SVNT Skin, Tali Mason and Shaanti Wallbridge from All Shades Matter, Princess Chinoyi from Entle Beaute, Elissa Leighton from FLYY BOD, Sumana Jayanth from Damn Gina, and Priyanka Ashraf from The Creative Co-Operative.
This story first appeared in the February 2024 issue of Inside Retail Australia magazine.