It’s been a rollercoaster for the fine jewellery industry, with the slow return of weddings and the rise of sustainable options. Sydney-based jeweller Claire Aristides is passionate about lab-grown gems and recently launched Futurae Diamonds. Here she chats about how the diamonds are created and her plans for the business. Inside Retail: You launched Claire Aristides some time ago and now you’ve just launched Futurae Diamonds. Can you tell me the story behind that transition and wh
what inspired it?
Claire Aristides: The evolution of Futurae Diamonds came initially from our Aristides Fine Jewels clients, who were curious, asking us about lab-grown diamonds. Did we work with them? And what did we think about labs? This started me on the journey of researching and understanding how lab-grown diamonds are made.
I took my time to understand the process of creating lab-grown diamonds and fell in love. It’s exciting and dynamic to be involved in an emerging area. As a creative, I love evolving and exploring the new.
To not complicate or confuse our existing customers, we launched Futurae Diamonds Lab-Grown Diamonds as its own brand, working solely with lab-grown diamonds. We wanted the brand to represent a vision for the future, of new beginnings and new possibilities but combining all the wisdom from the past. And so, we decided upon Futurae Diamonds – ‘Futurae’ means Future in Latin.
The brand was very much born out of a love for our future, a sustainable luxury brand, passionate about change. We believe in sustainable heirlooms and in creating beautiful designs that positively contribute to our world.
IR: Tell me about lab diamonds and some of the biggest misconceptions around them.
CA: Firstly, it’s important to explain how lab-grown diamonds are created. It is a complex process of innovation, advanced technology, and master craftsmanship. Lab-grown diamonds are grown in a highly controlled laboratory environment using an advanced technological process that replicates the conditions under which diamonds naturally develop when they form in the mantle beneath the Earth’s crust.
There are two methods of creating lab-grown diamonds – HPHT and CVD. The key to the creation is a diamond seed. This is very important, as it means [the lab-grown diamonds] have the same carbon composition and chemical structure as an earth diamond, the same optical and chemical properties.
Lab-grown diamonds are almost impossible to differentiate from earth, or natural, diamonds and can be identified only with scientific testing using specialised gemological equipment.
A great analogy is a baby can be conceived naturally or with in-vitro fertilisation; either way, you have a baby – the only difference is how the baby was made. And this is the same with earth diamonds and lab-grown diamonds.
Once a lab-grown diamond is made, it follows the same journey as an earth-mined diamond in that it is cut and polished, graded, and certified/graded based on carat, cut, color, clarity (the 4 Cs) and shape – just like earth/natural diamonds.
A big misconception is that lab-grown diamonds are not real diamonds. People can take some time to get their head around the thought of man-made diamonds, and there is some resistance from the industry but perception is changing.
Key industry bodies are acknowledging lab-grown diamonds as diamonds. One of the most important industry bodies, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) stated, ‘Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical composition and crystal structure as diamonds created by nature.’ GIA provides certificates for lab-grown diamonds as it does for earth-mined diamonds, officiating the stone, documenting the stone’s cut, colour, clarity and carat.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in the US has stated that, ‘Technological advances have made it possible to create diamonds in a laboratory. These stones have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds. Thus, they are diamonds.’
[Even so], there has been some confusion with crystals, cubic zonic, and moissanite stones. This confusion works in favour of the diamond simulant/crystal market. But these products are not International Gemological Institute or GIA certified, they are not carbon. And in the analogy, they are not a baby.
IR: What are your plans for Futurae Diamonds and who is your target market?
CA: Our passion is for the bridal market, creating beautiful fine jewellery, from engagement rings to diamond eternity bands, as well as classic pieces such as diamond studs and tennis bracelets.
From the start, we decided we would work only with certified lab-grown diamonds, which are more expensive than non-certified ones, but we want to give our customer the assurance they have an authenticated certified stone from one of the world-leading grading bodies.
The pricing of the lab-grown diamond market, relative to its mined counterpart, means a client can get a bigger and often better stone. And that’s very exciting for many. I know if I was getting engaged now with so much pressure to have “the big rock” this would be the route for me.
We also find our couples love the idea that they will pass down a piece of jewellery to their loved ones, which is an incredibly precious and sentimental tradition with a stone made with innovation and not mined.
IR: Tell me about Futurae’s partnership with Greenfleet.
CA: We are committed to Aristides Fine Jewels and Futurae Diamonds taking responsibility for our carbon footprint and emissions. We want to be accountable and prioritise our impact on the environment.
The first step in this process has been to partner with Greenfleet Australia, a leading environmental non-profit organisation and Australia’s first carbon offset provider, to take practical climate action.
A simple first action was to offset all our deliveries locally and internationally, and the second step was what we call the “Our Diamonds Grow Trees” pledge – which means that for every piece of jewellery made, we pledge to plant a tree with Greenfleet to help restore native forests around the country. When a customer buys from us, they are planting a tree.
We are also working with digital platform Trace to measure and manage our carbon emissions. Both Aristides Fine Jewels and Futurae Diamonds have recently become carbon-neutral organisations.
This is just the beginning of what we want to do, to continue to do better for people and the planet. Although the brands are different, the core values are the same – creative innovation, beautiful design, and making a positive impact.
IR: Lab diamonds are growing in popularity at the moment. What are some of the ways that you’re educating consumers around them?
CA: We have a very helpful guide online that explains lab-grown diamonds.
We also host regular Insta ‘Lives’ answering questions and these have been so popular for our audience, as we showcase the jewellery and answer any questions. Follow @futuraediamonds for our next Insta Live.
Education is really important; people have a lot of questions and they want to be informed and educated, which we love to do. An engagement ring purchase is a big purchase and investment for a couple, so education is really important.